Looking for the authentic Algarve? Go in the low season – and to Tavira
With wild beaches, gorgeous countryside and delicious seafood, Tavira and its surrounding villages have plenty to offer, even outside summerDusk in Tavira is a masterclass in seduction. On my first evening in the Algarve’s most easterly city – just 18 miles from the border with Spain – tangerine skies smudged by pillowy clouds unfurl above the old town, with its jumble of church towers and terracotta roofs.For such a romantic spectacle, the best vantage point proves to be the seven-arch Roman bridge spanning the meandering Gilão river, where I join an appreciative crowd of locals and off-season travellers. Small talk ripples through the group, and a young Portuguese couple choose this moment to surreptitiously bolt a padlock bearing their initials to the metal lattice. Even the living statue gets off his box to soak it all in. Continue reading...

With wild beaches, gorgeous countryside and delicious seafood, Tavira and its surrounding villages have plenty to offer, even outside summer
Dusk in Tavira is a masterclass in seduction. On my first evening in the Algarve’s most easterly city – just 18 miles from the border with Spain – tangerine skies smudged by pillowy clouds unfurl above the old town, with its jumble of church towers and terracotta roofs.
For such a romantic spectacle, the best vantage point proves to be the seven-arch Roman bridge spanning the meandering Gilão river, where I join an appreciative crowd of locals and off-season travellers. Small talk ripples through the group, and a young Portuguese couple choose this moment to surreptitiously bolt a padlock bearing their initials to the metal lattice. Even the living statue gets off his box to soak it all in. Continue reading...