How Chasing the Northern Lights in Norway Led Me to Indigenous Reindeer Herders

My journey above the Arctic Circle started as a mission to see the northern lights, or aurora borealis. In an effort to get the full, unadulterated experience, I decided to make the trek to a rural area outside of Tromsø, Norway.

I dreamed of fully experiencing the natural light show the way it was intended, as Tromsø has minimal light pollution. I even opted to stay at Aera Panorama Glass Lodge, which has an “Aurora Alarm” to notify guests when the lights are active. My optimism for seeing the aurora was a compelling enough reason to visit, but while doing my trip planning, I found another intriguing reason to visit that makes the region special: a culture of nomadic reindeer herding, something found few other places in the world.

The northern lights were just the beginning

I was pleasantly surprised when I learned that just a few minutes down the road from my hotel was Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, which runs a reindeer camp where guests can interact with the hoofed residents. I immediately added it to my itinerary — and I’m so glad I did. It was just as surreal and amazing as I imagined it would be, and I felt like I became instantly popular with the majestic creatures. They playfully pushed each other out of the way as they trotted toward the overflowing bucket of food in my hand.

On the day I visited, I estimated there were at least a couple hundred reindeer hanging out with us – but those were just the ones we saw. The total number remains a mystery. In the Sámi culture, it’s considered bad etiquette to ask someone how many reindeer they own. It’s the equivalent of asking someone how much money they have in their bank account — you just wouldn’t do it.

It was a special experience and something I’d recommend anyone to visiting Tromsø. But I also realized there was a deeper, more profound issue at the heart of the lighthearted experience. And the slushy, white mess I waded through hinted at that reason. I started chatting with the local herders, and soon realized my problem of frigid toes inside wet boots was nothing compared to the challenges the reindeer were facing.

During my time there, I gained a sincere appreciation for the people that devote their lives to the ongoing care of the reindeer: the Indigenous Sámi reindeer herders. Raising the animals had always been a way of life for the Sámi, but in speaking to a herder named Danel, I learned how climate change was altering their daily, traditional routines.

While you might assume that any place north of the Arctic Circle would be bitterly cold in winter, trends have changed in recent years. With the more extreme fluctuations in temperatures and weather caused by climate change, snow in Tromsø often turns to slush in warm temperatures, then condenses into ice when it cools down again. It’s extremely difficult for the reindeer to break through that layer of ice, preventing them from reaching the grasses, lichen, and shrubs they naturally graze on. Danel explained that this meant Sámi reindeer herders now need to buy additional feed for their herds of many hundreds of reindeer throughout the winter.

Sure, I was free labor, since I was there to assist with feeding. But the money I paid for the experience also helped with the exorbitant amount of money they now have to spend for additional food. Sharing the experience with visitors helps cover their rising expenses caused by a changing climate.

The struggles facing Indigenous Sámi reindeer herders

After visiting with the herd at Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, I began to wonder if the impacts of unstable weather were impacting reindeer herders elsewhere in Norway. My research led me to Kautokeino, a small village in the center of the traditional Sámi territory. It’s an area where reindeer herding has immensely deep roots, and I was able to connect with Sámi reindeer herders Ira Máre and Johan Ante Bæhr to talk about the significance of the geographic area. As they shared stories about the painful struggles Sámi reindeer herders had endured over the years, it made me even more empathetic toward their plight.

For centuries, the indigenous Sámi people faced hardships as the government tried to oppress their culture. Máre shared some of the conditions previous generations of Sámis suffered through. “You weren’t allowed to wear the traditional Sámi clothing,” she said. “And all of the kids had to go to boarding schools where they weren’t allowed to speak their native language, even though that’s the only language they knew. If you had a Sámi name, you had to change it, or you couldn’t own property.”

It was a period that lasted until the 1980s, during which time many Sámi reindeer herders lost their herds. As the historical center of Sámi culture, Máre says that Kautokeino was unusually resilient. “This town was the place that stood the strongest,” she said.

For Máre’s husband Bæhr, his family was one of the few who persevered, and they’ve now been herding reindeer in Kautokeino for many generations. He was only two or three years old when he decided to be a reindeer herder like his father, Bæhr told me while smiling proudly. He officially fulfilled that goal when he took over the herd about 10 years ago.

While the duo are able to herd their reindeer and not face the same level of oppression as their ancestors, Bæhr feels there are still scars that remain. “I think it still lingers a lot with the consequences of that time, especially in other areas that couldn’t hold on to the culture as strong as Kautokeino,” he said. “You have whole generations that have lost their native language.” They also face their own modern-day challenges to preserve their lands, as pressure mounts to use public lands for drilling, mining, dams, and windmills.

Climate change is making the situation worse

Máre and Bæhr spoke of climate change in a very real sense, describing it as something that’s challenging and changing this generation’s Sámi reindeer herders. They’re also seeing the effects of climate change in Kautokeino, similar to what Danel described to me near Tromsø.

“It’s been more and more common to have these really mild winters where the weather changes suddenly. We can have plus degrees in January, and then the next day, it will be minus 40 degrees,” said Bæhr. “The snow will be as hard as concrete, and that makes it really hard for the reindeer to dig for their food.”

He shared that the ice also leads the reindeer to wander more in their search for sustenance. That burns extra calories, so they need to eat even more. In Kautokeino, Bæhr and Máre are feeding them extra pellets and hay. It not only creates additional expenses, but also additional work that takes a toll on the herders. In response, Bæhr and Máre combine their herd with family members’ herds in the winter. It helps minimize the increased amount of work required by grazing their herds up and down hillsides each day to find food. As of early 2025, their estimated daily food cost is 15,000 Norwegian kroner, or about $1,350, per day.

Máre also explained the effects of climate change aren’t limited to the winter months. “It’s super dry,” she said, speaking about summer. “The food doesn’t grow when it’s so dry, because it needs rain,” she said. “There are also times that the calves haven’t grown as much when it’s been such a dry summer.” She shared that some of their neighbors have even had fires in their pastures due to extreme dryness.

There are groups working to help with combating the larger issues. The Sámi Council is one organization that proactively advocates for Sámi rights and interests across multiple countries. It has collaborated with the country’s Sámi Parliament to compile extensive science-backed research. Ongoing initiatives include creating recommendations on how to respond to climate change in a way that doesn’t negatively affect the Sámi and other Indigenous people, as well as working to ensure Sámi people are involved in all climate policy developments moving forward.

While there is a focus on becoming a low-emission society, that requires shifting away from energy production dependent on fossil fuels. However, that requires balance, as those projects could result in industrial developments, such as windmills, on territory Sámi reindeer herders use for grazing. The Sámi Council is helping to make sure more problems aren’t created in the attempt to fix the problem of climate change.

However, some parts of being a Sámi reindeer herding are getting easier

Climate change, recovery from years of oppression, threats of deforestation, and predators are all challenges faced by Sámi reindeer herders. However, modern-day herders do have one technological advantage over their ancestors that allows them to be less nomadic, by choice. “When the snowmobiles came, that was a huge game changer,” Máre explained. “You wouldn’t have to stay in the mountains for months anymore. You could stay a while and then go home. It’s more like a semi-nomadic culture now.” Máre and Bæhr practice that lifestyle, maintaining two homes while moving reindeer back and forth between them a couple of times per year. Snowmobiles, they say, help make their daily work a little easier.

Tourism has been a net gain for Sámi herders

Another thing this nature-loving couple is thankful for is the ability to share their Sámi culture with others. Last year, they started Up North Sámi Adventures as a way for visitors to have an authentic Sámi reindeer herder experience. “We wanted to be able to just share the more real version of what we do, keep our culture alive, and maybe fight off some of the racism we’ve experienced,” Máre says. They also hope to share their appreciation of nature with visitors, ultimately turning them into advocates who will speak up against environmental emergencies such as climate change and deforestation. Through the experiences they provide, their goal is to instill a new appreciation for both the Sámi culture and nature.

The couple’s love and commitment to the treasured Sámi culture and their reindeer is apparent. “If you wanted to be rich, you wouldn’t be doing this,” said Máre. “You have to do this because you really love it, and really love the animals. We could have other jobs and have more material things, but we choose this life instead. And it makes us rich in another way.”

What to expect if you visit

If you visit Up North Sámi Adventures, don’t expect a touristy experience. Instead, expect a peek into the everyday lives of the vibrant and unique group of people. You’ll hear their stories and see firsthand the work that goes into being a reindeer herder.

If you’re lucky, you may get a chance to hear someone joiking. To simply describe it as a song really diminishes the true, deeper meaning of a joik, although it does somewhat resemble a melodic song. Máre spoke highly of her husband’s beautiful joiking voice as she explained the meaning of it to me. “A joik is more like a feeling that comes to you and just inspires you — and then it just comes out. It’s very in touch with nature.”

You may even see someone wearing traditional Sámi clothing, known as gákti. Bæhr explained that they typically wear these for celebrations, though there’s also everyday gákti. It’s less common to see younger Sámi wearing them outside of special occasions, but he said his grandmother still wears gákti every day.

Visitors can also make a multi-day journey with the Up North herd during the reindeer migration. But they admit the migration can be challenging, and experience isn’t for everyone. Travelers interested in participating in the migration are vetted to make sure they’re prepared for what it’s like to travel in arctic conditions. That ensures it’s a good experience for everyone involved, including the reindeer.

When to visit

If you’re interested in learning more about Sámi reindeer herders and their traditional culture, book an experience with Up North Sámi Adventures or Tromsø Arctic Reindeer. Some experiences are seasonal, but many are offered all year. The reindeer feeding and sledding experience I did is available from November to early April. Rates for reindeer encounters start around 1590 NOK, or about $143.

Both companies are owned by indigenous Sámi families. By visiting, you’ll not only help offset the increasing costs they face due to climate change, but also gain a genuine appreciation for the culture — especially knowing your tourism dollars are helping keep their stories and heritage alive for future generations.