Could the Rolex Land-Dweller Become a Collector Favorite?

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

Colors and hues have generally not been prevalent in the watch industry as they shorten the longevity of the design. While fun and exciting, they are not as timeless as traditional colors that were achieved with natural textures and materials such as precious metals – think champagne dials (yellow gold), salmon dials (pink gold), silver dials (white gold), or natural stones and enamel. The technology for galvanization and colored pigments has progressed over the decades, which has made vibrant colors possible; this also allowed them to age more consistently and predictably. In my personal experience, colored watches are striking and distinct, but they’re also less versatile in style and can sometimes become dated over time.

Paul Altieri (Bob’s Watches)

We’re seeing color and creativity move from the margins to the mainstream. Rolex’s honeycomb dial and Moser’s Pop Collection show that consumers are craving more personality in their watches. These designs add energy and collectability, especially among younger buyers who want something expressive but still refined. Color is no longer just playful – it’s prestige with attitude.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

Bold colors were all the rage when Rolex first introduced the colored dial Oyster Perpetuals a few years ago, which were reminiscent of their past “Stella” dials. At this year's W&W, it seems like more muted pastel colored dials are the trend. We saw Rolex introducing the new pistachio/beige/lavender dial variants in their OP line, Moser with their new muted colour stones in their Pop Collection, NOMOS with their pastel colored limited editions in their new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer – just to name a few among many others. With the latest uncertainty around the world, I think consumers may lean more towards timepieces that look more subtle and understated but still have a bit of a fun element to them to “distract” themselves from everything that's going on. So in a way, pastel colors fit the bill quite well and I think we will continue to see more of them in the next 1-2 years.

Eugene Tutunikov (SwissWatchExpo)

Vibrant hues and intricate dial designs are signaling a shift in consumer preferences toward more expressive, personality-driven timepieces. Collections like H. Moser’s Pop Collection and Rolex’s honeycomb dial show that watch enthusiasts are increasingly drawn to pieces that break away from tradition and lean into individuality. These bold aesthetics offer a sense of playfulness and artistry, inviting wearers to see watches not just as tools or status symbols,but as extensions of personal style. As a result, we’re likely to see more consumers seeking out watches that make a statement – pieces that are visually striking, emotionally resonant, and conversation-worthy. It’s a move away from the understated and into a space where creativity and craftsmanship meet bold self-expression.

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

I think the technical achievement in the escapement development of the new caliber should be the headline rather than the reference that it is executed in. While the land-dweller is a “new” line for the brand, it is essentially a reissue of the Oysterquartz case from the past, to compete in the fading trend of ‘70s steel sports watches with integrated bracelets. It is likely that the new escapement will eventually make it into the rest of the collection, which will maximize the benefits of Rolex investing in its development.

Paul Altieri (Bob’s Watches)

The Land-Dweller is one of the most interesting Rolex releases in years. It’s sleek, integrated and gives off that Nautilus/Royal Oak vibe, but with Rolex’s DNA. I wouldn’t be surprised if it becomes the new go-to for collectors who want something under-the-radar but future-icon material. It’s modern tool-watch energy with luxury-level polish.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

It's not every year that Rolex introduces a new line, so as a big fan of Rolex, I'm naturally very excited to see the Land-Dweller. From a technical standpoint, it houses the new caliber 7135 with the Dynapulse escapement, which enables the watch to run at 5Hz (a first for Rolex). From an aesthetic standpoint, the Land-Dweller revives a look that draws inspiration from the Oysterquartz Datejust, which has been absent from Rolex's lineup for over 2 decades. Both of these features really appeal to the Rolex fanboy that I am – I love that the watch wears very thin on the wrist and can totally see it as a daily driver for many collectors.

While I like the honeycomb motif on the new dials, the 6 and 9 indices on the non-gem set models seem a bit out of place for me. I would really appreciate a darker dial variant. I believe the Land-Dweller would be here to stay, and I'm sure we will see more dial variants in the coming years. What I would be very interested in seeing is whether the caliber 7135 will remain a Land-Dweller exclusive movement or whether it will be rolled out to other Rolex lines as well. If it's the latter, it may reduce the appeal of the Land-Dweller for some.

Eugene Tutunikov (SwissWatchExpo)

I think the Rolex Land-Dweller was a strategically timed release and it’s positioned to perform exceptionally well. In a moment where the broader luxury watch market is seeing a bit of a slowdown, this kind of high-impact launch has the potential to cut through the noise and reignite consumer excitement. The Land-Dweller taps into what collectors and enthusiasts are craving right now — distinctive design, robust heritage and a fresh twist on classic aesthetics. The honeycomb dial in particular, is a standout element – it’s visually striking, textural and adds a level of depth that makes the watch feel both modern and timeless. It’s details like this that elevate the model and give it lasting appeal. Ultimately, I see the Land-Dweller generating a strong buzz not just within Rolex circles, but across the industry – it’s the kind of release that reminds everyone why Rolex continues to lead.

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

I am a huge fan of Jumping Hours, specifically the Guichet-style watches of the 1920s and 1930s, so I’m really excited to see this trend come back in style. That being said, I’m also incredibly surprised at the variety of brands revisiting this genre independently of each other.

Paul Altieri (Bob’s Watches)

There’s something timeless about guichet-style designs and heritage revivals – they bring watchmaking history into a modern context. What’s exciting is how brands across the spectrum, from Cartier to Louis Vuitton, are leaning into it in fresh ways. It’s clear that storytelling and legacy resonate with today’s buyers, especially those looking for meaning beyond just the mechanics.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

The jump hour/scrolling hour style design is coming back in a big way, with multiple brands introducing new jump hour style watches over a short period of time. Did the whole watch industry come together and jointly decide this is the year of the jump hour? I will never know. But what I do know is this style of watch is all about having nice proportions and aesthetics. I think Cartier has knocked it out of the park this year with the revival of the Tank à Guichet in the Privé collection. I love the new case that takes more inspiration from the 1920s model, with the crown at 12 o'clock and the yellow gold version with the green numerals is just an absolute dream. I believe we will continue to see more brands introducing jump hour watches until the trend becomes overdone. But in the long run, I think beautifully designed and proportioned jump hour watches will continue to appeal to collectors.

Eugene Tutunikov (SwissWatchExpo)

What’s especially exciting is seeing such a wide range of brands embrace this approach. From heritage powerhouses like Cartier to newer players like Bremont, each brand interprets vintage through its own lens, bringing fresh nuance to classic forms. It shows that vintage isn’t about replication – it’s about reinterpretation. And when done right, it appeals not just to seasoned collectors but also to a younger generation seeking authenticity, design integrity and a sense of connection to the past. This diversity in execution is what keeps the trend dynamic and relevant.

There’s an undeniable romance to these vintage-inspired watches – these timepieces evoke memories of a simpler era, offering a sense of comfort and continuity in a world that can often feel fast-paced and uncertain. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about emotion, storytelling and a desire to hold onto something timeless.

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

Jumping Hours and Guichet-style watches were never really in vogue after their first wave a century ago, with a small revival during the '90s post-Quartz crisis era. I am certain there are more to come, and it’s about time this niche genre of time display gets its time in the spotlight.

Paul Altieri (Bob’s Watches)

We’re entering an era where complexity is cool again. Jumping hours, celestial complications, even retrograde displays – these features are making watches feel more interactive and artistic. I think collectors appreciate the ingenuity, especially in a world where everything else is digital. It’s a nod to craftsmanship that feels more relevant than ever.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

I think this type of complication appeals in two ways: 1) the aesthetic and 2) the knowledge that the watch is able to perform such complex calculations mechanically. Firstly, let's face it, if you like complicated watches, then you have to like how the complication is displayed on the dial. Having a lesser-known complication is quite satisfying, but how many of us actually need to use information such as mean solar time? The satisfaction is more likely to come from knowing that the watch is able to do that and admiring all the effort that has gone into making the watch work. In the past few years, the watch market has been dominated by well-executed and well-finished time-only watches, which have been grabbing all the collector attention as of late. With the introduction of the world's most complicated wristwatch this year from Vacheron Constantin, is it time for exotic complications to shine again? Only time will tell.

Eugene Tutunikov (SwissWatchExpo)

The renewed interest in lesser-seen watch complications signals a growing maturity within the collector community. As more enthusiasts move beyond the basic, like chronographs and date displays, they’re seeking out pieces that offer deeper horological storytelling. Complications such as jumping hours, retrograde displays, deadbeat seconds or even more esoteric mechanisms like equation of time or chiming functions are gaining attention because they reflect true watchmaking artistry and innovation.

This shift isn’t just about functionality – it’s about emotion, intrigue and the desire for something rare or intellectually engaging. These under-the-radar complications often come with rich histories and require exceptional technical skill to execute, which appeals to collectors who see their watches not just as accessories, but as mechanical expressions of craftsmanship and heritage. The fact that these features aren’t commonly seen only adds to their allure – they offer a sense of discovery, exclusivity and connoisseurship that speaks to the evolving taste of the modern watch enthusiast.

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

The market is in a time of retro-inspired designs, specifically the focus on mid-century style time-only chronometer style watches (think Rexhep Rexhepi, Philippe Dufour, Atelier de Chronometre, Laurent Ferrier, etc.) and early 20th-century classical designs (think Santos, Tanks, Reversos, etc.). Yellow gold is clearly having a moment, with smaller case sizes being the prevalent choice. Brands that are poised to cater to this trend will be able to enjoy short-term success, while those overly focused on avant-garde displays, or oversized movements and cases, might find it hard to adapt to this new consumer preference. But ultimately, all brands should stay true to their core DNA while making small concessions to evolving trends, rather than going all in on capitalizing on short-term fluctuations in market taste.

Paul Altieri (Bob’s Watches)

This year’s Watches & Wonders proved one thing: collectors want watches that say something, not just about time, but about taste, identity and legacy.

Independents are pushing boundaries – visually, technically, and culturally. They’re not afraid to experiment, and that freedom is influencing the larger Maisons. At the same time, big brands are learning how to blend tradition with trend, which makes for a really dynamic moment in the industry. In 2025, the line between niche innovation and mainstream appeal is getting thinner, and that’s a good thing for collectors.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

Independent watchmakers continue to focus on craftsmanship, finishing and innovative designs – and they tend to create well-executed time-only watches. Recently, we saw the introduction of RP2 from Raúl Pagès, which really encapsulates the collector zeitgeist (at least for collectors of independents) at the moment.

However, in terms of complications, we tend to see more of them from the major brands. This is probably due to bigger brands being able to invest more resources in R&D to develop new complicated movements. The new movement that we saw in the latest Royal Oak perpetual calendars would be the perfect example of a major brand continuing to refine its complications. Major brands also tend to have rich archives that they could draw inspiration from, and I think most of them would continue to lean heavily on their iconic designs to attract consumers. These two very different market segments will likely continue developing in these different directions to satisfy their fans unless we see major changes in collector preference.

Eugene Tutunikov (SwissWatchExpo)

One of the most compelling trends among independent watchmakers is their willingness to take creative risks and challenge traditional design and engineering norms. Compared to the larger Maisons, which often have to balance innovation with brand heritage and commercial scalability, independents have more freedom to experiment.

Another standout trend among independent watchmakers is the deeply personal storytelling behind many of these watches. Independent creators often pour their philosophy, artistic vision, or even cultural roots into each piece, making the watches feel more like wearable art than mass-produced luxury goods. There’s a sense of intimacy and individuality that resonates with collectors looking for something truly unique, something that hasn’t been seen a hundred times
before.

As we look at the evolving dynamics between the two in 2025, it’s clear the industry is entering a transitional phase. The red-hot demand from 2020 to 2023 created an environment where collectors felt confident exploring lesser-known brands. Independent makers thrived during that period, gaining traction through bold design choices, inventive complications and the appeal of exclusivity.

Now, with the luxury watch market cooling and economic uncertainty influencing buyer behavior, priorities are shifting. Collectors are becoming more cautious, gravitating back toward established houses known for their heritage, brand equity, and long-term value. That doesn’t spell the end for independents, but it does raise the bar. To stay competitive, they’ll need to go beyond novelty, offering truly differentiated designs, compelling narratives, and a clear reason for collectors to keep taking chances on them.